How Do You Make Soap All Natural Without Lye?
Natural soaps refer to soaps made using natural oils and fats rather than synthetic detergents. They do not contain lye, the caustic chemical traditionally used to saponify oils into soap. The popularity of natural soaps has grown due to consumer demand for gentler, more natural personal care products. The global natural soap market was valued at $1.83 billion in 2021 and is projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.2% from 2022 to 2030, according to a report by Grand View Research (
Conventional soaps made with lye can strip the skin of natural oils and have an alkaline pH that may irritate sensitive skin. Many consumers are switching to natural soaps because they are perceived as more gentle and moisturizing. Natural soaps allow people with skin conditions like eczema to avoid harsh surfactants found in regular soaps.
Lye and Its Role in Soapmaking
Lye, also known as sodium hydroxide, is a key ingredient used in traditional soapmaking. When combined with oils or fats in a chemical reaction called saponification, the lye acts as a catalyst to turn the oils/fats into soap (1).
Specifically, the hydroxide ions in the lye react with the fatty acids in the oils/fats, transforming them into soap molecules. This reaction also produces glycerin and water as byproducts (2). The soap molecules, composed of salts of the fatty acids, can then lather up and cleanse the skin when used.
While lye is essential to this traditional soapmaking process, some wish to avoid using it for a few reasons:
- Lye can irritate skin and cause chemical burns if handled improperly (3).
- The chemical reaction with lye gives the soap a higher pH, outside the normal pH range of skin (4).
- Some simply wish to use more natural ingredients in their soap.
Thankfully, there are ways to handcraft soap without lye while still achieving a mild, effective bar.
Sources:
(1) https://www.healthline.com/health/sodium-hydroxide-skin-care
(2) https://wwwn.cdc.gov/TSP/MMG/MMGDetails.aspx?mmgid=246&toxid=45
(3) https://newsnetwork.mayoclinic.org/discussion/mayo-clinic-minute-allergy-or-irritant-the-truth-about-your-rash/
Oils and Fats for Natural Soap
When making natural soap without lye, the oils and fats you choose are crucial for creating a bar with the right properties. Each oil contributes its own beneficial qualities. Some of the best oils for natural soapmaking include:
Coconut oil – Adds bubbly lather and hardness to the soap bar. Coconut oil has cleansing and moisturizing fatty acids. A good oil to use in combination with others (Bulk Natural Oils).
Olive oil – Contributes mildness, gentleness, and creaminess. Olive oil is moisturizing for the skin and produces a stable and long-lasting soap (Brambleberry).
Palm oil – Adds hardness and lather to the soap. Palm oil makes the bar last longer. Often combined with olive oil for balanced qualities.
Sweet almond oil – Very mild and gentler on skin. Produces a creamy lather. Typically used along with other oils.
Castor oil – Only a small amount is needed. Castor oil helps stabilize a recipe and adds bubbles. It also makes the soap harder and more long-lasting.
Experimenting with different oil combinations allows you to create natural soap with your ideal qualities. Keep notes on how each oil blend performs.
Creating a Lye-Free Soap Recipe
When formulating a lye-free soap recipe, it’s important to use a combination of hard, soft, and liquid oils. Hard oils like coconut, palm, or shea butter provide creamy lather and hardness to the bar. Soft oils like olive, almond, or avocado oil nourish skin and add moisture. Liquid oils like castor, jojoba, or sweet almond oil help create a smooth texture.
A common ratio is 40% hard oils, 50% soft oils, and 10% liquid oils. Adjusting the percentages creates different properties – more hard oils make a harder bar while more soft oils create a more moisturizing soap.
Superfatting, or using an oil surplus, is key for a gentle lye-free soap. A 5-15% superfat ensures excess oils remain to nourish skin. Too little superfat can dry skin, while too much leaves a greasy feel.
Natural colorants like clays, spices, or botanicals add visual appeal. Start with 1 teaspoon per pound of soap. Essential oils or dried herbs provide natural scents at about 0.5-1 ounce per pound. Research skin-safe usage rates before adding.
Following basic recipes from trusted sites like Lemons Lavender and Laundry helps create successful lye-free soaps. Experimenting with different oil combinations and additives allows customizing the recipes.
Melting and Mixing the Oils
The first step in creating your natural soap is melting your oils together. It’s important that the oils are fully melted and integrated before adding the lye solution. The most common oils used in natural soapmaking include olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and shea or cocoa butter. Melt the oils together in a microwave safe container, heating at short intervals, until they are fully liquefied. The temperature should be around 100-110°F before adding the lye.
Mix the oils in the following order: First, melt the harder oils and butters like palm oil, coconut oil, or shea butter. Next, add in the liquid oils like olive or sweet almond oil. You want the harder oils melted first so they mix smoothly into the liquid oils. Stir periodically to ensure even blending as the oils melt together.
Once the oils are melted and combined, you can add essential oils for fragrance if desired. Use Essential Oil Blends for Soap Making as a guide on mixing scents. Start with a small ratio like 5-10 drops of essential oil per pound of oils. Blend different scents together to create your own signature fragrance. Be sure to fully incorporate the essential oils into the oil base before adding the lye solution.
Pouring and Molding
Once your soap batter has emulsified and thickened to a light trace, it’s ready to be poured into molds. You have several mold options when making lye-free soaps:
– Silicone molds – These flexible molds make it easy to unmold the finished soaps. Silicone withstands the heat of soap batter well and produces products with smooth surfaces. Some popular soap mold suppliers are Curtis and Fox, The Crafter’s Choice, and Bramble Berry (https://www.brambleberry.com/shop-by-product/molds).
– Wood molds – These sturdy molds hold their shape well but can absorb fragrance oils over time. Line them with freezer paper to prevent sticking. Wooden loaf molds with silicone liners are a popular option.
– Other molds – You can use milk cartons, aluminum bread pans, or even yogurt cups to make your natural soaps if you line them properly.
Before pouring your batter, it helps to gently stir it to emulsify any separated oils. Then briefly whisk to introduce air bubbles and thin it to a pourable consistency. This is called “tempering” the soap. Do not blend too long or it will accelerate trace. Pour the batter into each mold cavity, tapping the molds to release air pockets. Allow the soap to set up at room temperature for 1-2 days before unmolding.
Unmolding and Curing
Once your soap has hardened, usually within 1-2 days after pouring, you can remove it from the mold. However, your soap isn’t ready for use just yet – it needs time to finish curing before it will be at its best quality.
Curing is the process of allowing the soap to fully harden and the chemical saponification process to completely finish. This takes 4-6 weeks for cold process soaps. During this time excess moisture evaporates from the bars, making them harder, milder, and longer lasting [1].
Proper storage during curing is important. Each bar should have air circulation around it so wrap individually in wax paper or place on a wire rack. Store in a cool, dry area out of direct sunlight. Avoid covering the bars or stacking them directly on top of each other [2].
Once cured, natural soap bars can last several months with proper storage in a soap dish that allows drainage. Enjoy your handmade soap! The curing time is worth the wait for a higher quality, longer lasting bar [3].
Using Your Natural Soap
Once your soap has finished curing, you’re ready to start using it for washing. When lathering up your natural soap, you’ll notice it creates a rich, creamy lather that gently cleanses the skin and rinses away cleanly. Expect your homemade soap bars to last 4-6 weeks with regular use before needing to be replaced. The longevity can vary based on the oils used and how frequently it’s used.
Proper storage is important for maximizing the lifespan of your soap. Make sure to store cured soap bars in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight and heat to prevent sweating. Allowing air circulation around the bars will help keep them drying properly between uses. Many soapmakers recommend storing handmade soap in open containers or mesh bags. Avoid tightly sealing soap while still moist, as this can cause mold growth.
For more tips on enjoying your handmade soap, check out these useful references:
https://thesoapcoach.co.uk/blogs/on-my-soap-box/15-soap-making-hints-tips-and-hacks
https://diynatural.com/soap-making-tips-secrets/
Troubleshooting Issues
Soap making is a science, but it doesn’t always go as planned. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them:
Preventing Soda Ash
Soda ash is a white powdery residue that can develop on the surface of cold process soap. It’s caused by the reaction of lye and carbon dioxide in the air. To prevent soda ash:
- Cover the soap with plastic wrap or waxed paper after pouring into the mold. This prevents air exposure.
- Spritz the top of the soap with 91% isopropyl alcohol. This helps harden the surface.
- Gel the soap by placing it in an oven or heating pad after pouring. This accelerates saponification.
If soda ash does develop, it can be washed off once the soap is cured. It’s harmless, just unsightly. Source
Fixing Cracked Soap
Cracks happen when soap loses moisture too quickly after being unmolded. To fix cracked soap:
- Lightly spritz the surface with rubbing alcohol to melt and smooth over cracks.
- Use a vegetable peeler to slice off cracked pieces and re-mold into a new bar.
- Grate and rebatch cracked soap pieces into a new loaf.
To prevent cracks, cure soap in a cool, dry area with good airflow for 4-6 weeks. Source
Reworking Seized Soap
Seizing happens when too much heat or improper mixing causes the oils and lye water to separate. To rework seized soap:
- Gently reheat the soap in a crockpot or double boiler until it melts back together.
- Stick blend again to fully incorporate.
- Move to mold quickly before it seizes again.
Prevent seizing by not using too much heat and stick blending only enough to reach thick trace. Source
Perfecting Your Recipes
Once you have the basics down, you can start experimenting to create your ideal bar of natural soap. Here are some tips for perfecting your recipes:
Experiment with different oils and butters. Try swapping out some olive oil for avocado, coconut, or shea butter. Each oil contributes its own properties – for example, coconut oil creates a hard bar while olive oil is gentle. Keep notes on how different oil combinations affect the final bar.
Add various colors and scents. Essential oils, herbs, spices, and natural colorants like clays or botanicals can customize your soap. Use sparingly at first until you find your preferred amounts. As cited from 25 Soap Making Secrets Tips and Tricks, add sunflower oil instead of Vitamin E to naturally enrich your soap.
Keep detailed notes on each batch. Write down the exact ingredients, measurements, and process for each soap recipe. Take photos of the finished bars. Record how you liked the scent, lather, hardness, etc. This helps perfect recipes over time.
Aim for your ideal bar. Natural soapmaking takes trial and error. With each batch, adjust the recipe based on your notes. Work towards your perfect bar with your preferred qualities – hard or soft, moisturizing or cleansing, scented or unscented. Be patient and enjoy the creativity of the process.
