What Smell Is Cashmere?
Cashmere is a prized wool that comes from the soft undercoat of certain breeds of goats. It is known for its extremely soft, lightweight, and warm feel. Cashmere goats produce the fiber during winter months to protect themselves from the cold. Once collected and processed, cashmere is spun into yarn and woven or knitted into luxurious garments and accessories like sweaters, hats, gloves, and scarves.
Cashmere differs from other types of wool and animal hair due to its fineness and delicate nature. The fibers measure between 14-18 microns in diameter, which is around one third the width of a human hair. This contributes to its lightweight feel. The soft fibers also lack the outer scale pattern found in sheep wool, preventing irritation against skin. As a result, cashmere is valued in the textile industry for its comfort, gentleness, and insulation.
While cashmere production is most closely associated with certain areas of China and Mongolia, the wool can be harvested from specific breeds of cashmere goats around the world. Whether locally produced or imported, products made with cashmere fiber carry a premium price tag due to the labor-intensive harvesting process and limited global supply.
The Origin of the Cashmere Scent
Cashmere originates from cashmere goats, which are native to central Asia regions like Mongolia, Iran, Tibet, and other parts in the Himalayas. The fine, soft undercoat that cashmere goats grow to survive the harsh winters is what produces cashmere wool. This winter coat helps insulate them from the extreme cold temperatures.
Cashmere gets its distinctive natural scent from lanolin, which is an oily or waxy substance secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals like goats and sheep. Lanolin helps protect the cashmere goat’s coat and skin. As lanolin is extracted from the raw cashmere fibers, it leaves behind an earthy, musky scent that is characteristic of high-quality cashmere.
The natural lanolin scent in cashmere comes from the geography and climate of where the goats graze. The grasses, herbs, and shrubs the goats eat in these high mountainous regions of Asia impart the unique smell into their wool. So the cashmere gets its signature scent directly from the source – the indigenous goats and their diet.
The Natural Scent of Cashmere
The natural scent of cashmere wool comes from the oils naturally present in the fibers. Cashmere wool has a distinctive warm, musky, and sweet odor. When raw, cashmere contains an odor known as “grease,” which is made up of lanolin and suint. Lanolin is an oily wax that is secreted from the sebaceous glands of sheep to help lubricate and waterproof their wool. Suint refers to dried sweat deposits from the sheep that contain salts, fats, and oils1.
Once the raw wool is scoured to remove impurities like grease, the remaining cashmere scent is described as soft, delicate, and slightly floral. The natural scent profile of cashmere includes subtle woody and earthy base notes like cedar and sandalwood blended with sweet fruity top notes like peach or apricot. There are also hints of vanilla, musk, and rose for a luxurious bouquet2.
The natural odor of cashmere is often compared to the smell of a baby’s head. It evokes comfort, softness, and warmth. The cashmere scent is soothing, clean, and slightly powdery rather than strong or pungent.
Chemical Composition of Cashmere Scent
The characteristic scent of cashmere is created by a complex blend of organic compounds. The main chemical contributors to the cashmere smell include:
- Musk compounds like muscone and civetone – These provide cashmere’s soft, warm, and sweet nuances.
- Ambergris – Derived from whale digestive systems, ambergris lends cashmere its marine, earthy undertone.
- Sandalwood oils like α-santalol and β-santalol – Sandalwood gives cashmere its rich, woody aroma.
- Benzyl acetate and benzyl alcohol – These organic compounds provide cashmere’s floral scent facets.
The exact formula and concentration of these natural raw materials leads to the unique, luxurious aroma that is associated with cashmere wool. The scent is derived from the oils in the wool fibers themselves.
Cashmeran (source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cashmeran) is a common synthetic substitute that attempts to recreate the smell of cashmere. Its main chemical components are cylcopentanone, cylcohexanone, heptanone, and ambrettolide.
Regional Differences in Cashmere Scent
Because cashmere wool comes from different breeds of goats in various regions around the world, there are distinct variations in the scent of cashmere depending on its origin. The major producing regions and their cashmere scent characteristics include:
Mongolia – The Gobi Desert region produces around 60% of the world’s cashmere. Mongolian cashmere has an earthy scent reminiscent of the steppe grasslands where the goats graze. There is a slight barnyard aroma due to the nomadic herding practices.
China – Chinese cashmere from Inner Mongolia and other northern regions has a cleaner aroma compared to Mongolian. There are delicate floral notes such as jasmine and rose underlying the earthiness.[1]
Iran – Persian cashmere has a warm, spicy scent profile with hints of saffron, cardamom and cedarwood. The goats graze in mountain valleys on fragrant native vegetation.
Afghanistan – Known for extremely fine, soft cashmere, Afghan goats graze on high altitude grasses and shrubs. This produces a cashmere scent with hints of herbs, lavender and pine.
Australia and New Zealand – Southern hemisphere cashmere is reminiscent of the forests and meadows where Antipodean goats graze. Scents include eucalyptus, wattle and wildflowers.
Production Effects on Scent
The natural scent of cashmere can be impacted by manufacturing processes. Cashmere fiber in its raw form has a mild, pleasant scent described as sweet, warm, and musky (Candlelore, 2023). However, steps like washing, carding, and dyeing during production can strip away the delicate oils that give cashmere its signature smell. Overprocessing cashmere using harsh chemicals or high temperatures diminishes the natural fragrance (CFDA, n.d.).
To retain the most cashmere scent, manufacturers aim to use gentle, eco-friendly practices. Minimizing chemical processing helps keep the wool’s lanolin and natural essence. Using cool water washes, delicate carding, and low-impact dyes helps preserve the cashmere’s soft character and aroma. Hand processing methods also introduce less stress compared to industrial equipment. When care is taken to protect the fiber’s integrity throughout production, the resulting cashmere retains more of its pleasing natural smell.
Maximizing Cashmere Scent
Cashmere wool has a distinct and pleasant natural scent that is unique to the material. There are several tips for maximizing and maintaining cashmere’s delicate fragrance:
Wash cashmere garments less frequently, as frequent washing can diminish the natural lanolin oil that gives cashmere its scent. When washing is needed, use a gentle cashmere-specific detergent and avoid highly fragranced products.
Fold freshly washed cashmere sweaters and store in an airtight container for 24-48 hours before wearing. This allows the natural scent to redistribute through the fabric.
Consider storing cashmere with scented products like cedar blocks, lavender sachets or potpourri to lightly scent the garment while preventing moths.
When drying cashmere, avoid direct heat and let air dry flat to avoid diminishing the scent over time through heat damage.
Handwash cashmere or use the delicate cycle on a washing machine and skip the dryer to help prolong the garment’s lifespan and natural fragrance.
Look for cashmere products like throws, blankets and clothing that specify “virgin cashmere” or “two ply cashmere”, as higher quality cashmere retains more lanolin oil.
Spritz a light mist of essential oils like sandalwood, bergamot or vanilla onto stored cashmere to enhance the natural scent over time.
Masking the Scent
Some people find the natural lanolin scent of cashmere to be unpleasant or too strong. There are a few different reasons why someone may want to remove or mask the scent of their cashmere garments:
Odor retention – Cashmere is very porous and absorbs odors easily, so if stored improperly it can take on undesirable smells like mothballs or body odor. Removing the base cashmere scent first allows for a neutral slate when cleaning.
Sensitivity to lanolin – Lanolin is a wax secreted by wool sheep that coats and protects their wool. Some people are sensitive or allergic to the lanolin in wool and cashmere. Neutralizing the scent makes items wearable.
Prefer other scents – Even those who don’t mind the natural cashmere odor may wish to use perfumed detergents or sweater sprays to make their clothes smell like flowers, vanilla, etc. This layered fragrance isn’t possible if the cashmere’s own scent remains.
There are a few common techniques for removing cashmere’s natural odor:
– Soak in a diluted white vinegar solution for 30 minutes prior to washing. The vinegar will help break down and dissipate the lanolin smell.
– Add a cashmere-safe detergent that contains odor neutralizers or perfumes when washing. These can help mask the natural scent.
– Steam the cashmere post-wash to remove any lingering odors trapped in the fibers.
– Use an anti-odor sweater spray containing cyclodextrin or fragrance oils to eliminate odors between wears.
Health and Environmental Impacts
The production of cashmere can have some concerning health and environmental impacts. Cashmere goats produce fine undercoat hairs, but they must be combed out by hand – a labor intensive process. Intensive combing and living conditions can cause skin lesions in the goats (Good on You, 2022). Furthermore, cashmere production requires large herds of goats that are grazed extensively. Overgrazing can lead to desertification and erosion, damaging fragile grassland ecosystems (Sustainable Jungle, 2022).
However, there are ethical cashmere producers that aim to improve sustainability. Some use combing methods that are gentle on the goats’ skin and aim for land management that prevents overgrazing. Choosing ethical brands can help mitigate some of the health and environmental downsides of cashmere production.
Conclusion
In summary, cashmere’s characteristic scent comes from the natural oils found in the soft cashmere fibers. While the raw scent is herbal, musky, and woody, today’s cashmere products often have additional fragrances added during manufacturing. The most common added scents include vanilla, bergamot, sandalwood, and jasmine. While natural cashmere has a subtle earthy aroma, commercially manufactured cashmere tends to have a sweeter, warmer scent. The takeaway is that cashmere’s scent profile can vary greatly depending on the region it was sourced from, production methods used, additional fragrances added, and personal scent preferences. However, in general, the signature cashmere scent evokes cozy warmth and soft sophistication.